Review: Cedar Street Restaurant
By MAXWELL TUCKER
June 2005 - Every now and then you have a dining experience that
stands out, one that you’ll remember for months to come, one to
which you’ll wind up comparing all others. After a short ride to
our quiet destination in Sturbridge, my friend and I had just such a night
at Cedar Street Restaurant.
Extending from the entrance off the rear parking lot, a walkway lined
with flower boxes leads you to the front patio, a semicircular deck; this
is where guests can enjoy outdoor dining highlighted by lanterns and tiki
torches.
The building itself is reminiscent of a nice neighborhood family home,
cozily tucked into a corner of stately New England greenery. Stepping
inside Cedar Street, we found the atmosphere and style similar to that
of a sexy euro bistro. Dove grey walls with prints and French advertising
posters echo the bistro feel while sheer curtains and large candle votives
in saturated colors of tangerine, cobalt, and lime pull the lighting down
to a warm, intimate level.
Settling down to peruse the menus, I first opted for the Australian Hyland
Shiraz, which was excellent, and my guest sipped a Bombay Sapphire. The
menu is a surprising mix of eclectic ambition and gourmet fun. It took
both of us a bit of time just to absorb the wonderful and varied descriptions
that accompanied each item. Finally, we gave up trying to select an entrée
and decided to focus on the starters instead. So, while continuing to
anticipate the rest of our dining experience, we started with the Fried
Cuban Calamari. My companion and I are major calamari fans and we agreed
that this version of our favorite might take the prize. A virtual pile
of calamari arrived perfectly seasoned and lightly fried, stacked in a
square ceramic basket and resting on a banana leaf drizzled with lime
mayo and decorated with paper-thin lime slices ~ wonderful! My guest then
enjoyed the Sweet Bell Pepper Soup and Chesapeake Bay Clams in a smooth
and creamy sauce. I chose the Poached Black Bean Ravioli. Dressed with
bold red and green stripes that conjured up an image of the Italian flag,
the raviolis sat in a pureed pamadoro sauce and were stuffed with cumin,
cheddar cheese and tequila ~ very nice.
Our salads turned out to be yet another culinary triumph. The Baby Arugula
Salad came with sliced pecans, candied orange peel and bleu cheese while
the Beef Carpaccio Salad, accompanied by chunky pieces of goat cheese,
was covered with capers and super thin slices of carpaccio and onion over
mesculin greens.
It was no surprise when our dinner plates arrived artistically drizzled
with beautiful sauces. I had opted for the Miso and Molasses Glazed Tuna
and my guest had splurged with the Filet of Beef. I love fish steaks as
a rule, but I tend not to head for sashimi. Although my tuna was certainly
of that high a quality, my huge portion was ~ as the menu had promised
~ glazed in the sweet molasses and decorated in a light miso. The wonderful
tastes of this entrée just kept coming; a bed of wild brown rice,
sautéed asparagus, and squash and zucchini kept my taste-buds enthralled.
The Filet was just as delicious, accompanied by a mound of savory basil
mashed potatoes and a cognac au jus. As tempting as it was to combine
all the flavors in one mouthful, the filet was so exceptional that each
piece deserved to be savored on its own.
Knowing that we were so full that an entire dessert was out of the question,
we still had to try at least something, right? At our server’s suggestion,
we both sampled dessert trios. My guest indulged in the trio of Italian
sorbets decorated with chocolate pieces and I went for the trio of crème
brulees; both were outstanding. The three sorbets were highlighted by
a grapefruit flavor that was so intense it was like biting into one of
the fruits itself and the chocolate… well, if you’re a fan
of the dusty super dark chocolate bars you would have been in heaven,
each piece so dark and creamy it was like frozen molten chocolate. The
brulees were also a treat, creamy and subtle, with the lime of the trio
generously infused with a rich, key limey tanginess.
Cedar Street is not new to Sturbridge, but its reputation had been for
having only a decent menu and a decent selection of vegetarian items.
Now under the inspired and talented hand of Chef William Nemeroff, the
restaurant has undeniably become one of the best in Central Massachusetts.
Cedar Street Restaurant is a perfect mix of outstanding, creative cuisine,
gracious service and a warm, hip atmosphere. For a special occasion with
a good friend or loved one, or simply as a treat to yourself, you can’t
make a better choice than Cedar Street Restaurant.
DETAILS:
Cedar Street Restaurant
12 Cedar St,
Sturbridge, MA 01566
508-347-5800
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