Pho Dakao
By Bernie Whitmore
August 2005 - Want some relief from summer heat and humidity so
heavy it can suck the appetite right out of you? The freshness and simplicity
of Vietnamese dishes make them far more suitable to the hot months than
most other cuisines. With this in mind, a friend and I recently paid a
visit to Pho Dakao – one of several Vietnamese restaurants in the
area.
Relief came the moment we entered the dining room; the air-conditioning
wasn’t too cold and we were promptly shown to a table. Our Englishspeaking
waiter arrived to pour us tall glasses of iced jasmine tea – absolutely
delicious! For additional quenching we ordered bottles of 33 Export ($4.50),
a very pale, unassuming lager beer from Viet Nam.
The dining room is a long rectangular affair painted in pastel shades
of blue and orange. Though the room faces Park Avenue, its wooden shades
were drawn low to provide protection from the commotion of the traffic
and the glare of the setting sun. We sat below red neon tubing that proclaimed,
“Welcome to Pho Dakao.” Tables were covered with glass-over-linen
and set with caddies of hot and soy sauces.
We soon made our appetizer decisions and started with Fresh Summer Rolls
($3.50). Shredded lettuce, mint leaves and vermicelli noodles joined slices
of medium-sized shrimp inside soft rice paper wrappings. The order of
two rolls was served with traditional peanut dipping sauce.
Our appetizer was followed by Mussels Sautéed with Scallions and
Ginger ($6.75). Large green mussels in pearlescent shells, tender and
totally free of grit, were drenched in a sauce of white onion and scallion
strips sautéed until just a remove from crunchy – still firm
and fragrant with fresh ginger. We raved over the harmony of flavors and
textures!
During the interlude following our appetizers, we couldn’t help
but listen in on enthusiastic conversations nearby and got a sense of
the everyday drama of life in nail care salons. This entertainment faded
into the background as our entrees began to arrive.
From the menu category Bun (vermicelli rice noodles), I had chosen Bun
Tom Thit ($6.75). A large bowl of snow-white springy noodles came topped
with carefully arranged groups of shredded lettuce, mint leaves, bean
sprouts and crushed roasted peanuts. The star attractions were two large
grilled shrimp and rich-tasting slices of roasted pork. Ignorant of any
etiquette rules I might be breaking, I mixed the ingredients and doused
them with the accompanying bowl of mild fish sauce. This was a meal I
could sink my plastic chopsticks into for sure!
My guest chose the Beef with Broccoli entrée ($8.95). This was,
perhaps, the simplest presentation of the evening. Tender chunks of beef
were served in a fragrant sauce amidst an emerald forest of crunchy broccoli.
If there are folks out there who don’t like broccoli, trying it
at Pho Dakao might just change their minds!
We finished our dining experience with one of Pho Dakao’s two desserts,
Chuoi Chien ($4). A large, firm banana had been sliced lengthwise, floured
and deep-fried golden brown. Less sweet than bananas I’m accustomed
to, it was served drizzled with honey.
If Pho Dakao isn’t already one of Worcester’s favorite ethnic
restaurants, it soon will be. Sporting a decent wine and beer list, it
serves some of the freshest and healthiest food around. Although definitely
a welcome break from the summer heat, I’d recommend Pho Dakao any
time of the year.
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