|
|
          |
Emerald Isle is a Millbury Street gemMenu for two
Tomato basil soup, chicken with rice and fresh vegetables soup, sirloin burger special with french fries, chicken marsala luncheon entrée, soda and iced tea. $21.95 with tax For years we've been hearing about Emerald Isle, located in the middle of Millbury Street's east-side ethnic stew. We've heard the Isle has the best french fries in town, although our source is redheaded Katie McEvoy (who is just a tad Irish), so her recommendation comes with more than a dash of salt. And then there is our friend and co-worker who says the Emerald Isle's burgers are "fantastic". So it being a very cold day in November (what is it about burgers and fries when you're cold?), we left the cozy confines of Shrewsbury Street and braved Kelley Square for lunch at the Emerald Isle Pub & Restaurant. To get to the Isle, just look for the green leprechaun's hat above the restaurant and pub's roof beside Route 290. One of the best things about Millbury Street is its multi-cultural flavor and true to the area's reputation as the city's hottest melting pot, the Emerald Isle's neighbors are Rizzutis Foods, Golemos Polish Sausage and the Hoang Nghia gift shop. And of course just across Kelley Square on Water Street are the best international and Jewish delis in the city - but that's a review for another day. We warmed up right away in Emerald Isle's friendly, pub-like atmosphere where every waitress seems to be a smiling Mary or Margaret, there are spacious leather-like booths and a big counter serving happy regular customers -- right away you know this is going to be a supreme, comfort-food experience. And it was. My companion and I started off with hot soups of the day -- cups of delicious tomato basil with chicken and chunky-good, homemade chicken and rice with fresh veggies. Doesn't it seem true that if a restaurant serves tasty, well-prepared soup, the rest of the courses that follow are usually good too? Katie is right -- the french fries I had with my $5.95 sirloin burger special are very good (and I especially appreciated the fact that our waitress delivered them with a fresh bottle of malt vinegar), although I must admit we have had better. But the hefty sirloin burger was delicious, especially topped with slices of just sauteed fresh green peppers and mushrooms. True the tomato garnish was a little pale looking (why can't Worcester restaurants get good tomatoes? Even in August when local gardens are bursting with Big Boys, it's hard to find a fresh tomato anywhere in the city), but the burger was extra lean, tasty and cooked just right. My companion had one of the lunch/dinner entrees - chicken marsala. Covered with fresh (not canned, praise be!) sauteed mushrooms in a golden, honey sauce, the two big fillets were tender and sweet. Served with a decent green salad and rice for $8.95, the dish was classic Worcester -- lots of very good food, served simply without a lot of blarney. We do wish the parsley garnish wasn't quite as wilted, but quibbling over decorative touches seems a little silly when you're looking for reasonably priced, comfort food. Other specials on the menu that day included a tempting marinated tenderloin sandwich (just $5.95), fish and chips for $6.25 and a full course baked ham dinner - also for just $5.95. Sandwich specials include The Blarney, featuring corned beef, Swiss cheese and more for $4.95 and the substantial Emerald Grilled Roast Beef Pocket with fries for $4.95. And of course for dessert there are old-fashioned treats like apple pie and rice pudding. The Emerald Isle also has a full bar area (featuring Guiness mirrors and other Irish memorabilia) and a dinner menu we can't wait to try. Maybe one February night when the cold wind is whistling down Millbury Street, we'll hustle into this Isle of comfort food contentment. The Emerald Isle Pub & Restaurant is located at 40 Millbury Street in Worcester. 508 792 3830. Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. |