Céad Míle Fàilte
By Kate Barbera
March 2005 - Ireland may not be known for its fine cuisine. However,
this Saint Patrick’s Day try these throwbacks to the ‘old
country.’ I promise you’ll keep coming back to these restaurants
year round.
Nestled between an old-fashioned wood-burning stove and a wall of antique
Guinness barrels, I settled into my booth at Desmond O’Malley’s,
a surprisingly authentic Irish pub on Route 9 in Framingham. Irish lager
is O’Malley’s signature offering.
The traditional Guinness Stout ($4.25) is obviously the real thing with
its tar-like color and bitter, but smooth flavor, all topped off with
a rich and creamy head. For a lighter option, try the Magner’s Irish
Cider ($4.25). This refreshing draft has the distinct flavor of fermented
apple, highlighted by delicate carbonation.
Entrees were enjoyable, if not inspired. A Beef and Guinness Stew ($11.99)
featured buttery cubes of meat and the addition of first-rate beer gave
the sauce dimension (although the molasses-like consistency of the stew
sometimes
swamped its flavor).
Another pub classic, Beer Battered Fish and Chips ($10.99) was playfully
presented on a sheet of parchment paper covered with newsprint. Two thick
cuts of flaky cod sat atop a pile of unremarkable French fries. The beer
batter was crunchy and light, but didn’t have enough seasoning or
flavor to counter the characteristically bland cod. A bottle of malt vinegar
and a dollop of intensely tangy tartar sauce were enough to correct the
imbalance.
The star of the evening was the Four Onion Soup ($4.49). A base of caramelized
red and yellow onions, along with leeks and spring onions gave depth and
complexity to this richly flavored soup. This notable starter was not
too salty, a common downfall of onion soups, and topped with a garlicky
crouton and just the right amount of melted jack and cheddar
cheeses.
If you’ve made it to the bottom of your pint by the end of dinner,
treat yourself to one of O’Malley’s decadent liquored coffees
($5.99) — the traditional Irish Coffee is the best. For those who
want something more substantial or those who plan
on driving home, the chef’s homemade cheesecake (flavors vary by
day) is a luscious choice. Our subtly flavored pumpkin cheesecake was
studded with chocolate chips and crusted with chocolate cookie crumbs.
O’Malley’s is a perfect weeknight spot to meet friends for
a casual dinner and fantastic beer. I recommend sitting in the pub section.
With its roaring fire and big screen TV, the pub’s atmosphere best
compliments the food, drinks and style of the restaurant.
O’Connor’s
1160 West Boylston Street, Worcester
(508) 853-0789
www.oconnorsrestaurant.com
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