Review: Margaritagrill
By Bernie Whitmore
June 2005 - If you’re going to have a hunger attack, try
to make sure there’s a place like Margaritagrill close by. Fortunately
for me and a couple of friends, we were driving along the Route 20 automile
in Auburn last week when our cravings hit.
After entering the driveway, one can choose from two restaurants that
share the same parking lot, kitchen, and domain name: Chuck’s Steakhouse
or Margaritagrill. In the mood for Mexican, we chose the latter and had
the host show us to the cantina-style dining room where we were seated
in a booth lit by a rustic metal lamp. If the abundance of sombreros and
cacti isn’t enough to drive home the point, the room is also anchored
by a huge wooden bull’s head, complete with ring in snout. This
toro all but shouts, “You’ve left Massachusetts and are somewhere
south of the border!”
Our waitress welcomed us with a basket of chips and a zesty salsa loaded
with chunks of tomato. We scanned the menu and soon had our margaritas
selected. I ordered the basic house version, frozen and mango-flavored.
But no matter what flavor concoction you order, it’s served with
a straw boldly planted in the center of its slushy goodness, wrapper coiled
like a Christmas ornament. Attractive and refreshing ~ clearly this is
a place that takes its margaritas seriously!
Along with the appetizer our waitress delivered a stern warning: “Don’t
touch the dish, it’s HOT!” Of course, the one of us nearest
the dish immediately grabbed it and quickly confirmed that the warning
had been, well, completely called for. Originally I’d been doubtful
that one appetizer could satisfy the three of us, but the Chipotle Chicken
Crisp ($9) proved more than up to the task. The golden brown flour tortilla
was layered thick with shredded chicken, spread with sweet chipotle BBQ
sauce and topped with melted jack and cheddar cheeses. There was enough
for delicious firsts, seconds and more.
Margaritagrill’s menu offers all the entrée sections one
would expect in Mexican cuisine; there are plenty of Fajitas, Burritos,
Enchiladas and combos. They also have some specials that bridge the divide
to Chuck’s Steakhouse. Our choices confirmed that Margaritagrill
is the place to bring big appetites. One guest ordered the beef Chimichanga
($12), a huge turnover deep-fried golden brown and packed with chunks
of tender sirloin in rich dark gravy. It was surrounded by heaps of rice
and beans then topped with scoops of guacamole and sour cream. Big portion,
even bigger flavor!
The chimichanga’s bold flavor stood in sharp contrast to my other
guest’s Seafood Quesadilla ($13), a big tortilla folded over and
stuffed with “real” shrimp, flakes of white fish, cheeses,
fresh tomato and scallions. Had there been any bottles of hot sauce on
the table, this is one dish that would have received a firm shake or two.
I wondered why the menu described the shrimp as “real;” has
anyone started making faux-shrimp yet? These were the species found in
those supermarket juice-glasses of shrimp cocktail ~ tiny little rascals.
My entrée, the Spicy Chicken Quesadilla ($11), was reaffirmation
that Margaritagrill can make tasty Southwest cuisine. A flour tortilla
was jampacked with jerk chicken, Monterey jack and cheddar cheese. Jerk
chicken is a Jamaican method that “bakes in” the flavor of
hot peppers, spices and wood smoke. The spiciness was tempered by dollops
of chipotle sauce and sour cream. The portion was huge and I enjoyed it
enough to cart home the leftovers. Margaritagrill has a winning formula
going: Offer great service, great atmosphere and moderately priced, huge
portions served piping hot. The cuisine is Southwest in design, Northeast
in flavor. The result is gringo-friendly fun.
Margaritagrill
10 Prospect Street
Rt.20
Auburn, Massachusetts
508-832-2553
www.chucks.com
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