October
2005 - For the past few years, the Flying Rhino’s been on my short list of places perfect for a Friday night draft and burger or Cuban sandwich. But recently I took notice of their full list of entrees ~ a selection that just might rival other impressive menus on
Worcester’s ‘Restaurant Row.’ And with the Rhino’s tasty offerings in mind, I asked a friend to meet me there for dinner.
Moments after arriving we were seated at one of the glass-topped tables near a gigantic cactus. This dining room seems the result of a very fertile imagination; starting
with a background of warm colors and wood paneling, it’s been generously
decorated with splashes of the tropics, the American Southwest, and tribal motifs. Our
waitress arrived with a friendly greeting and a slab of hot-from-the-oven bread with garlicky olive oil for dipping. When she departed to fill our drink order we dove into both our menus and the fresh bread.
I forgot that the Rhino stocks its silverware and thick paper napkins in a pot on each table ~ these place settings were hiding behind the wine menu. But after dripping more than a little olive oil, I remembered them and decided to set the table before suffering an embarrassing wardrobe accident.
Our drinks were $7 each and big-time hits. My Mojito was made with Bacardi Silver rum and crushed ice that
trapped shreds of fresh mint throughout ~ it was refreshing and had me wishing for more ~ lots more! My friend’s Ketal One Cosmopolitan was classic in preparation and filled the martini glass to the brim ~ not a dropped spilled en route to the table!
We
started our meals with tender golden Fried Calamari ($9) tossed with banana
peppers and garlicolive oil. The Rhino takes this typical formula and sets it apart by tossing the calamari with sautéed spinach and a sprinkling ~ more a blizzard ~ of grated Romano cheese. We ordered the ‘Bite’ size and found it more than enough.
After clearing away the clutter of plates, our waitress surprised us with\ house salads of cucumber and
tomato slices topped with crumbled feta cheese, curls of red onion and a tart vinaigrette dressing.Things got even better with ourentrees. My guest’s Lobster Ravioli($24) was a seafood-lover’s feast.In tribal fashion, the ravioli werezebra-striped with squid ink and stuffed with minced lobster meat.They were served with a half-dozen large shrimp plus scallops and lobster meat, all tossed in a rich lobster sherry cream. Don’t order this mealif you have a cholesterol test comingup!
My entrée, Citrus Tea Duck ($19), was a study in the balance of flavors and textures. Pan-seared
boneless duck breasts were sliced and coated with a glaze of orange, rosemary and black tea. The duck
was crusty dark and rich-flavored on the outside but remained tender pink inside, served with jasmine rice and crunchy stir-fried bok choy. I matched it with the dry citrus flavors of a glass of Tohu Sauvignon Blanc($9) from New Zealand.Alas, these portions were so hugewe couldn’t be tempted by
dessert, so the Flying Rhino’sChocolate Decadence will have towait for another visit.
But this mealconfirmed what I had suspected ~whether you’re interested in an informal‘quick’ meal or inimaginative cuisinewith elegant flare, the Rhino soars.
THE
FLYING RHINO CAFE AND WATERING HOLE278 Shrewsbury Street
508 757 1450
www.flyingrhinocafe.com