Continuing the family legacy
By Bernie Whitmore
February 2005 - The Rovezzi name is not new to Worcester’s
dining scene. To much anticipation and excitement, Chef Chris Rovezzi
recently opened Rovezzi’s Ristorante in the North Works building
on Grove Street. Why the buzz? Not only is his restaurant of the same
name a popular dining destination in Sturbridge, but his father’s
cooking has been missed since Joseph Rovezzi Sr. retired and closed his
Main Street establishment in 1992. I’ve missed Rovezzi’s signature
Italian flavors and was looking forward to getting reacquainted.
On a recent Tuesday evening, my guest and I arrived to find Rovezzi’s
packed, giving us an opportunity to sit at the new bar and check out the
wine list. We admired the light fixtures of frosted glass that hung on
tendrils of wrought iron and enjoyed the warm atmosphere, accentuated
by the balance of rich red walls and the exposed wood and brick of the
historic mill building.
After being seated, we surveyed the menu, which revealed a sophisticated
cuisine that borrows liberally from rustic Italian classics through the
boldest of the New American canon. Dare I call it ‘Italian fusion?’
Just as I was poised to select the Asparagus Antipasti, an appetizer of
roasted asparagus wrapped with prosciutto and provolone ($7.50), my guest
suggested one of the specials, which we decided to share. Bresaola con
Ruccola ($8) consisted of buttery-soft Argus sirloin drizzled with lemon
olive oil and shavings of Reggiano cheese. The thin-shaved beef had been
cured in Rovezzi’s kitchen in a manner similar to prosciutto and
was served warm with plenty of cracked pepper and spicy fresh arugula.
We used triangles of grilled home baked bread to sop up every last bit
of this extraordinary starter.
Then, our server presented our perfect Caesare Insalatas ($6 or 8.50 for
two) and a basket of ovenfresh bread with a small carafe of garlicinfused
olive oil. A meal unto itself!
Soon, our Piatti della Casa arrived. My entrée, a filet of sea
bass ($20), was pan roasted until its panko crumb crust was golden brown
and served nestled against a mound of Yukon gold mashed potatoes. Cracking
open the crust revealed moist snow-white flakes of the freshest, most
delicate tasting fish. A salsetta of arugula, red onion and tomato provided
sharp flavor contrast. I matched my entrée with a glass of Cantele
Chardonnay ($7). From Puglia, Italy, its crisp pear and apple flavors
bore a hint of oak.
Across the table, my guest was similarly impressed with the Veal Chop
Milanese ($21). It was lightly breaded, pan fried and dramatically served
with its long thin bone sticking out like a spear. Pan flashed arugula
and chopped tomatoes accented the tender veal. Both entrees came with
the day’s vegetable, braised kale and onions.
My guest matched his veal with a glass of Tramonto Barbera D’Asti
($8), an assertive, robust red. Purely with a sense of duty to my readership,
I pressed on to dessert, in this case Rovezzi’s Crème Brulee-of-the-day
selection — Chocolate Almond ($7). Cool chocolate almond custard
was presented under a think crust of crunchy burnt sugar. It was served
with a dollop of achingly rich whipped cream. This was my second meal
at Rovezzi’s, and both evenings were memorable for excellent service
and adventurous cuisine. I’ve never forgotten some of the dishes
Joseph Rovezzi Sr. served at his restaurant on Main Street, and now Rovezzi’s
is back and better than ever with his youngest son continuing the family
legacy.
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