Review: Thai Time
By Bernie Whitmore
May 2005 - This month’s restaurant experience is for the
intrepid diner who doesn’t require elegant settings or predictable
cuisine. Thai cuisine was a mystery to me, so on a recent weeknight I
invited a specialist in Asian cooking to join me for dinner.
Thai Time faces what was once Spag’s. The demise of the local landmark
left the depressing vista of crumbling asphalt that greeted us as we arrived
at the restaurant. We entered through a similarly dingy lounge and passed
by a murky tank of tropical fish. Fortunately, the dining room was bright
and our waiter was in an upbeat mood. Once seated, we set about the task
of planning our meal.
From a list of more than a dozen seafood, chicken, and vegetarian appetizers,
we chose to share an order of Curry Puffs ($4). Stuffed with a filling
of minced chicken, potato and onion, each puff was a crimped halfmoon
of flaky pastry deep-fried to a light golden brown. Although I enjoyed
their mild curry flavor, my guest thought they were a touch bland.
Things significantly heated up with our Papaya Salad ($5). Crunchy strands
of shredded papaya were tossed with small half-tomatoes, green beans and
peanuts, then dressed with refreshing chili-infused lime juice. This and
the other eight salads on the menu are available from mild to extra-hot
at the customer’s request. Though tolerably spicy, the after-burn
had us appreciating our bottles of crisp Singha lager beer.
Soon, we were presented with our first entrée. There should be
an award for Thai Time’s Honey Duck ($14)! Boneless slices were
arranged over wilted spinach leaves dripping in delicious honey ginger
sauce. The duck was cooked until fork tender and the meat just flaked
apart. The crispy skin was roasted rich with ginger and honey flavors.
The portion was ideal for sharing and we savored every last delicious
morsel.
From there, we turned the heat back up with Pad Ped Talay ($16), a combination
of shrimp, tender rings of squid, juicy sea scallops and New Zealand mussels
on the half shell in a sauce of spicy chili peppers that was balanced
by sweet coconut milk and crunchy bell peppers. The seafood was fresh
and cooked to perfection. Our entrées were served with a large
bowl of steamed rice. We also ordered Pork Pad Thai ($8), rice noodles
mixed with egg, tofu, bean sprouts and ground peanuts. But the duck and
seafood portions were so large that we took most of the Pad Thai home.
There’s a widely held fear that Thai cuisine is too spicy and hot.
However, Thai Time’s menu has dishes that range from mild to extra-hot
and the friendly staff provides ample warning when you stray toward the
chili side of the menu. Those who appreciate fresh ingredients and the
harmony of textures and flavors inherent in Asian cuisine (and anyone
passionate about duck) will enjoy Thai Time.
DETAILS
Thai Time
15 Lakeview Ave,
Shrewsbury
(508) 793-0008
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